Living with the clouds in Sajek valley

Sajek valley is a remote hilly area that is located in Rangamati district, but you have to go there through the Khagrachari district. Once upon a time this place was a risky place for security reasons and only few adventurous people could dare to travel to this region. But nowadays the situation has changed. Bangladesh army has established their camp over there along with BGB. That’s why the security has improved over there and a lot of tourists are going there during their vacation. It has been around a year and I didn’t plan to travel. So I joined a group and they have arranged everything (from bus ticket to guest house reservation). I was totally tension free and enjoyed a perfect vacation into the clouds after a long time. See more photos from Sajek valley from the gallery.

We already hired (over the phone) a local four wheel drive vehicle that picked us from Dighinala of Khagrachari. It was probably around 5000 Taka for the two days. There were only five people in our group. The weather was initially sunny, but later changed its mode several times. We even had rain on our way and paused our journey beside a local tea stall. I have a severe back pain problem and the driver was too rough. Most of the time I was rigid on my seat located behind the vehicle. The whole road journey was thrilling for others and they have enjoyed the beauty of rain, clouds, and the picturesque view of the hills, etc.

It took approximately 2.5 hours to reach the Sajek valley. It was around 4:00pm that day when we made it. We were late because we explored several places from Dighinala including the Hajachhora Waterfall. In fact we had a great shower from the lovely waterfall. When we reached Sajek it was fully covered with clouds. It means we were inside the cloud. So we became short sighted and couldn’t view most of the things from around us. It was a bit chilly but lovely weather.

We booked the guesthouse from the Army camp in Sajek valley. I thought it would be a normal room with handy beds and other stuff. I didn’t expect too much from this hilly area. But inside the Army guesthouse it was too luxurious. A spacious neat and clean room with a large attached bathroom with most of the urban facilities. Also the guest house has an attached terrace at the western side which is a perfect place for watching the sunset and having an afternoon time pass. The guest house also has a separate dining room and they already served our lunch over there (cooked by the army chef). It wasn’t having too many items but enough to satisfy the hungry souls like us. These types of foods are costly over there. They had to collect these from the nearby market which is more than an hour away through a vehicle.

There was only 10/15 minutes left before the sunset when we finished our late lunch. So we grabbed a few chairs from there and started enjoying the sunset in Sajek Valley. It was the first sunset that I have enjoyed while sitting on a chair! The western side was totally flat and we were at the top from our end. The sunset could have been an amazing one. But unfortunately the clouds forced the sun to set a bit earlier than usual. It Basically disappeared into the clouds. Also because of the cloud the colorful sky was looking slightly hazy. But it was nonetheless beautiful.

While I was sitting on the terrace, I watched two bids which I haven’t seen before (or maybe I have seen before but couldn’t notice carefully). These two birds were Indian Roller, and Blue Rock Thrush female. The sun was at the back side of the birds and that’s why the photos were slightly darker. After sunset I enjoyed a squirrel that was playing on a tree far from us. My crazy zoom camera helped me to observe the squirrel more closely than ever. I was there as long as the after sunset daylight was available.

After the sunset I had a nap for an hour or more. In fact my other tour mates also had a nap. The breeze in Sajek valley after sunset is too heavy. From inside a room the noise feels that something like a storm is passing outside. Also the night was too cold (a similar cold can be felt during the winter in Bangladesh). We had a dinner with the same menu and after the dinner we had a hangout at the terrace till the night 2:00am. Two members (sadly one passed away after a year) from our team had an amazing vocal and they entertained us most of the time with their musical talent. Also the night was full with firefly bugs lighting around. Unfortunately we haven’t seen too many stars in the sky for the cloudy environment. Though we went to bed late, our aim was to wake up early in the morning to watch sunrise in Sajek valley. Crazy ha!

As per the plan the next day we woke up too early to watch the sunrise. But once again, we were inside the cloud and couldn’t see too far from us. So we have given up our hope for the sunrise in Sajek Valley. So we randomly explored the area by lazy walking. We spent a few minutes in the Runmoy Coggate and had a photo session over there. But slowly the situation was getting worse (in terms of weather). I sensed heavy rain. So I packed my camera inside the bag and started walking with long steps. It was touch and go when I reached our guesthouse room. Few of us couldn’t reach on time (maybe for 30 seconds) and they paid by soaking up from the early morning rain.

The rain was becoming heavier and I was inside the tin shed room of the guest house. It has been a long time since I last passed inside a tin shed room during the rain. It usually feels like 10/15 times heavier when you are inside such houses. The rain didn’t show any sign of stopping and I decided to have another round of nap inside the rain. I slept for an hour or two. I didn’t have a sound sleep last night (usually I don’t at a new place), but this time I had a sound sleep. With the musical raindrops the nap couldn’t have been more relaxing than that one.

After breakfast we headed for the Kanglak Para which is around 20/30 minutes of walking distance from the Army camp. Through the typical hilly path we reached the village without any problem. The village was a neat and clean one. It was a populous village even a year back. But now the tribal people from this village are moving to another location (don’t know why, maybe the water source is a problem here). That’s why only a few families were remaining there. In fact we didn’t see too many villagers there during our stay. From this village the view of Lushai Hill is clear, but once again the clouds! and …

Despite being a remote village inside the hilly area of Bangladesh, Kanglak para was having most of the urban facilities such as electricity (from solar), cable tv, etc. They also cultivate fish inside the large pots which I didn’t see before anywhere. Also, our district towns are far from this village, so they prefer to go to Mizoram for their needs. Even a lot of kids from this village go there for study purposes (Probably better education and the option to study in their mother language). Not sure whether they cross the border legally or illegally. There is a school available in this Kanglak para, but the condition of the school wasn’t that good. Either our government, or the Army should take care of the school to improve it. The Army has established a tourist spot there, now it’s time to repair the old school (built in 1963).

After returning from the Kanglak Para we packed our bags and said goodbye to Sajek valley. I wanted to stay there for another day and wanted to leave the valley after sunset as my bus was at 10:00pm at night. But unfortunately the tour wasn’t arranged by me. It was their decision about staying or leaving. So I had to agree with them and left the valley unwillingly. It was an amazing time I passed in Sajek valley after a long time. In fact It’s been a long time since I had a luxurious tour like this one. Most of my trips are budget trips as you’ve already read from my other articles (like staying in a cheap hotel and using public transportation).

About the Sajek valley

Sajek valley is an amazing village located on top of the mountains which is located in Rangamati district. This became a popular tourist destination as the current road condition has improved a lot. This is a place where people spend their time inside the clouds.  From the plain land of Bangladesh we always see the clouds flying high in the sky. But in Sajek valley you are actually inside the cloud. You could touch it and smell it. Also the way to the Sajek valley is scenic. Visiting this valley during a wonderful day would be a dream for anyone.

Being located on top of the hill, the water is expensive and hard to get in this village. People collect the water from nearby streams from the valley where it has a couple of small waterfalls. Earlier the tourists were not allowed to go there. But nowadays a lot of tourists go and visit those two waterfalls. To be on the safe side and at the same time to enjoy the beauty of the waterfalls along with clouds of Sajek valley, September is the best time to visit.

How to go

To go to Sajek valley first you have to come to Khagrachari. Shamoly will be the best available bus service from all. From Khagrachari you can reach Dighinala using a CNG driven vehicle. It will be around 50 taka per person (as of 2013). From Dighinala you can hire motorbike or any four wheel driven vehicles locally known as Chander Gari. It will be better if you hire the vehicle for round trip. Otherwise you may not find any vehicle during your returning. Probably our group has hired the four wheel drive vehicle for 5000 taka for two days. I am not sure about the cost.

Where to stay

Sajek valley is the latest craze of Bangladesh in terms of tourism (as of 2014). Year by year the demand from tourists is growing. And several guest houses are built around the valley. Most of those are managed by the Army or the BGB. Those are high quality ones. There are a few which are managed by the local people. Also you could stay as a paying guest in a local people’s house (like you do in Bandarban).

In recent time there are plenty of cottages and guest houses were built based on the demand. But still compared to the demand, it is not enough. So better arrange your stay before going there. Otherwise you might have to return back on the same day.

Sajek Valley,
Upazela: Baghaichhori,
District: Rangamati,
Country: Bangladesh
GPS Coordinate: (23°23’25.22″N, 92°17’9.56″E)

Written by Lonely Traveler,
for the blog alonelytraveler.com

Friday, 26 September 2014 – Saturday, 27 September 2014